Monday, 6 February 2012
STRIP - Helmut Lang's Archive
Posted by
1972
at
08:50
Labels:
Cary Wolinsky,
Fashion,
Gluckman Mayer,
Helmut Lang,
Inez and Vinoodh,
Steven Meisel
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- 1972
- Clothing in Context. Writing about Fashion, Film, Literature and Design.
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You sliced up his work like a nice fresh piece of sashimi, dipped in wasabi (wabi & sabi). I'd still like a piece of it in my collective memory.
ReplyDeleteBesides, what do you think of the Lang as it is being sold in department stores today? Shredded versions of the other Lang, too?
Good point!! I'd ignored Helmut Lang 2.0 - maybe because there are so many designers reworking his language under their own labels. And I wouldn't have even thought about trying to reconstruct a history for him if he hadn't started to shred it . . .
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ReplyDeleteNice blog. Do you happen to have, or know were one may view the Helmut Lang collections (1989 - 2005)?
I like your splits of the images, but was wanting to see the full size images of each season.
thank you
Hi,
ReplyDeleteYour best bet is probably Firstview.com - most of the 1996-2005 collections are free to view on there? Before that it's very hit and miss - there are some great Tumblr sites like Cotonblanc which have a lot of nineties imagery, but there's little or nothing in terms of conventional front-and-centre runway shots!
JM
Thank You
ReplyDeleteSuch an insightful and enjoyable piece - thank you. For me, Lang had an extremely rare ability to combine canonical forms with an idiosyncratic experimentation that simultaneously subtle yet essentially avant-garde.
ReplyDeleteI'm sure that even your T-shirt, in its mundane colour and ordinary detailing, was in many small ways groundbreaking. Maybe it was the slightly softer jersey fabric that didn't fade after washing it a few times, or the tapered waist and narrow sleeves that confidently complemented the shape of your body. I could go on and on about details like these... The situation is that most observers will not recall subtle changes like these, and possibly not even notice them in the first place. That's how many of Lang's ideas entered the mainstream; as features that quickly became so normalised that they were almost invisible.
For those interested, ENDYMA has a fairly extensive archive of Lang's runway shows (starting in the mid-to-late 1980s) and we're more than happy to share what we have with you.